The Mushroom Kings

Ingredients

• 1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1/4 pound pancetta, diced
• 2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms, woody stems trimmed
• 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced (about 1/3 cup)
• 1/2 serrano chile pepper, stemmed and minced
• 5 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1 pound dried fusilli or other short, twisted pasta
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 bunch greens, such as dandelion, mustard, or kale, stems trimmed and leaves cut into 2-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
• 2 tablespoons fresh juice from 1 lemon
• Parmesan, for grating

Directions

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add pancetta and cook until fat begins to render and pancetta is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, tossing until coated with oil. Cook, stirring, until mushrooms have browned and pancetta has rendered most of its fat, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in shallots and serrano and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and scrape pancetta mixture into a bowl. Set aside.

2. Add stock to now-empty saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add pasta. Cook pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes less than package instructions, then stir in greens. Cook for 1 minute longer, then stir in pancetta mixture, along with all the rendered fat. Cook until the pasta is al dente, greens are wilted, and liquid has mostly evaporated and formed an emulsified, creamy sauce, about 1 minute (if necessary, add water a tablespoon at a time if liquid completely evaporates before pasta is tender).

3. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon onto plates and top with Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

4. More Information

ingredients

• 2 teaspoons corn starch
• 3 1/2 ounces fresh chestnuts, peeled (about 1 cup)
• 9 ounces assorted fresh mushrooms (such as button, blue oysters, shiitake, or enoki))
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2-inch knob ginger, peeled and finely sliced (about 2 teaspoons)
• 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely sliced (about 1 teapoons)
• 2 scallions, white parts only, finely sliced (about 3 tablespoons)
• 2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons light soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• Kosher salt
• Steamed rice for serving

Directions

1. In a small bowl, combine corn starch with 2 tablespoons water and set aside. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.

2. Cook chestnuts in boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove with a strainer, drain, and set aside. Add mushrooms to boiling water, cook for 1 minute. Remove with a strainer, drain, and set aside.

3. Heat vegetable oil in a wok over medium heat until shimmering. Add ginger, garlic, and scallions, and cook, stirring, over until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chestnuts and continue stirring for 1 minute. Add mushrooms and stir for 1 additional minute.

4. Increase heat to high. Add dark and light soy sauces, stirring to combine. Add cornflour and water mixture and reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring, until sauce is thickened and coats the mushrooms and chestnuts, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Stir in sesame oil, season to taste with salt if necessary, and serve immediately with steamed rice.